So after making my Capri trousers I was a little annoyed about the lack of fit so I decided to investigate some potential fixes. I’m not sure if these trousers will be rescue-able but at least I will know for the next time I make the pattern.
To recap: I used my waist and hip measurements to choose the pattern size – I actually went for a size 12 on the waist and a 10 on the hip. The book itself actually included some information on fitting and explained how to measure crotch length and make adjustments for this but this all seemed fine for me. So, I naively thought that it would be a simple case of tapering from a 12 on the waist to a 10 on the hips, cut out the fabric and go! How wrong I was!!
Once I tried on the trousers there were a number of fit issues I had not anticipated so I scoured the internet and found some potential solutions. One really good resource I found was on Coletterie but it seems like there is no end to the adjustments that can be made to trousers and in fact whole books have been written on the subject. I have outlined my main problems below but there are hundreds more!
Wrinkles around crotch
Firstly the material is tight across my thighs and there are tight horizontal lines coming from the crotch
It seems that both of these issues are similar and I probably need to let out either the side seams or add some width to the inner thigh. This can be done by adding width close to the crotch and tapering down toward the knee.
So many problems here!
Waist band not aligned properly at the zip, gaping back, wrinkles across the front
The second problem and probably the most obvious is the gaping waist at the back.
It seems that this could be because the waist is two big but the fact it only gapes at the centre back indicates I might need a sway back adjustment, this accounts for your back curving inwards. A quick Google seems to bring up lots of tutorials for this and on quick inspection it seems to be a similar type of this to a full bust adjustment where you slash and spread the pattern.
Another problem apparent from this photo is the excessive fabric around the lower belly
It turns out this could mean I need a flat tummy adjustment (That certainly made me feel pretty good about myself!)
fabric pulling on inside leg
Finally, there seems to be excess fabric down the inside of my legs meaning the trousers don’t hang well
I’m not sure if this could be due to all the other fitting problems and might be rectified when they are fixed or if there is indeed excess fabric here. If this is the case then I think I need to remove excess fabric from the centre of each leg at the front and back.
So, there’s quite a lot of issues to fix. I think I might need to make a toile and fix one at a time starting with the most obvious until I get a really good fit. I think there will be a lot of googling, head scratching and pinning in my future but hopefully once I have a pattern that fits well I will be able to make it time and time again! and if all else fails at least I have learnt that skirts are so much easier to fit!