Matching a pattern to your style

Last weekend I had to take a long train joureny and so needed something to knit. All the projects I had on the go required multiple balls of yarn – not ideal for train knitting. So I decided it was time to get started on another cardigan. I have been eyeing up Vianne, another Andi Satterlund cardi, for a while and had even swatched it a few months ago (just after I finished Chuck). Given the hot weather recently it seemed like the perfect project. The lace panelling will make it the perfect summer cardigan.

 

Changing the pattern

The pattern is designed to be knitted up with 0-3 inches of negative ease and is cropped in length, similar to my Miette. Whilst, I love this cardigan and wear it a fair amount, it is not exactly my usual style. I thought about lengthening the pattern in a similar way to my chuck jumper but don’t think this really fits with the style of the cardigan. Instead I decided to make it more loose fitting and so cast on and started knitting in a size that has 2 inches of positive ease.
Vianne in progress

I have now knit up to the point where I have joined the under arms (this is knit top down) and am contemplating what to do next. The pattern calls for a number of decrease rows to create waist shaping but as I am hoping for a looser fit I think I will just knit straight down and maybe add a bit of shaping at the bottom so it sits nicely on my hips.

I am also a little concerned about what to do for the sleeves. The pattern shows 3/4 sleeves but I think with the looser fit perhaps full length would be better.

p.s. I will post Instagram updates with my progress so make sure to follow me there is you want to see updates!

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Lengthening a cropped jumper pattern

 

My most recent make was a full length jumper but I used the Chuck pattern by Andi Sattterlund which is for a cropped jumper. I really loved the style of this pattern but knew I wouldn’t get much wear from a cropped jumper as it does not really fit in with my style and the other clothes I wear. Despite this only being my second cardigan/jumper (here’s my first!)I decided to give it a try. Here’s how I went about it.

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Firstly I rechecked my gauge – as the back of the jumper was stocking stitch I measured a 10 cm square and counted the number of rows and stitches in this square. I also checked the length of the cable repeat as this may have affected the gauge slightly. Once I had these measurements I could work out how many additional rows I would need to add any given length to the bodice and also how many increase I would have to do on each row to add any additional circumference.

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I decided it would be best to increase the length by one full cable repeat so as to keep the design as true to the original as possible.

Next I measured myself both at the point where the jumper currently finished (A) and at the point where the lengthened version would finish (B) given an additional length of one cable repeat.

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The next step was to compare my measurement (A) at the current finishing point of the jumper to that at the same point on the schematic. It turns out my measurement (A) was 25% larger than that of the schematic. So, I reduced my measurement (B) by 25% to give the equivalent diameter for the schematic.

The difference between these two schematic measurement tells me how much diameter I need to add to the jumper . I then multiplied this by my stitch gauge to figure out how many additional stitches were required to increase the circumference from what it is now to the final circumference at the new length.

As I wanted to keep to the spirit of the original pattern I decided to increase in the same places as the decreases had been to get from the chest to bust measurement – this required increases in 4 places per row. So I divided the total amount of stitch increases required by 4 to tell me how many of the added rows would require increases. I then spread these evenly across the cable repeat to create a smooth gradient from the waist to the hips.

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HOW to do it yourself

Step 1: Measure your gauge – How many stitches do you have in 10 cm? How many rows?

Step 2: Divide these numbers by 10. This will tell you how many stitches and rows you have in 1 cm (I will call these your stitch and row gauge)

Step 3: How much length do you want to add to your jumper? Multiply this measurement (in cm) by your row guage. This is how many rows you will add to your pattern.

Step 4: Try on your cropped jumper. Measure your circumference at the current finishing point (This is your waist measurement)

Step 5: Measure your circumference at the length your jumper will be with the additional rows (This is the new circumference)

Step 6: Compare your waist measurement to the schematic on the pattern. The percentage difference between these two is your ease measurement.

Step 7: Reduce your new circumference by the same percentage ease. This is your final jumper circumference

Step 8. Subtract the schematic measurement from your final jumper circumference to give the increased diameter required

Step 9: Multiply this value by your stitch gauge to tell you haw many stitches you need to add

Step 10: Decide how many stitches you wish to add per row – this will often be 4 (2 on each side)

Step 11: Divide the number of stitches you need to add by the number you want to add per row to tell you how many rows need to have increases.

Step 12: Continue to knit your pattern increasing the correct number of times (determined in step 11) evenly across the additional rows.

I hope this helps. Has anyone else had to change a pattern before? I’d love to know what you did and why?

You can find out more about how I increased the length of this jumper including a worked example with my measurements on my Ravelry project page

Chuck Jumper

 

NEWSFLASH: I have a new favourite thing!

Chuck JumperI absolutely love this jumper. It took me just about 2 months to knit and I loved every minute of it! The yarn is lovely, the pattern is lovely, the jumper is lovely. I just want to curl up in it forever!

Ok so I think you get the picture that I really like this jumper! Let me tell you a bit more about it. It is the chuck jumper pattern by Andi Satterlund but made into a full length version instead of the cropped version featured in the pattern. It is in a lovely navy wool and it is super warm and cosy!

New Skill alert

After having knit only about 30 stitches of this sweater I came across my first new skill requirement – short rows. After a bit of googling I found a great tutorial on Purl Soho, and it turns out it really is as simple as it sounds. You just knit a short row , so don’t knit all the way to the end and then turn around and come back. Well, actually before turning you have to wrap the yarn around the next stitch but this is super easy and stops big gaps from forming in your knitting.

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After overcoming this first challenge I thought it would be smooth sailing from there on in. This was only my second knitted garment but it was from the same designer as my first one: Miette. However, whilst the basic construction was pretty simple I hadn’t factored in the cables. Don’t get me wrong, I did practice cables first on my hat before jumping straight in to a jumper covered in them but what was complicated was the way the repeats of the cables didn’t really match up and the pattern for the cabling was written separately to the pattern for the jumper. so there was lots of jumping around the pattern trying to find “stitch pattern 2” and then remember what row I was up to on each stitch pattern. Surely there’s an app for this sort of thing? If any one knows about it I’d love to hear from you!

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Unsure about the length of the jumper I decided to stop knitting the body before I reached the bottom band and transferred the stitches onto scrap yarn. The length was perfectly fine as a cropped jumper but I thought it  might be quite fun to try and adapt the pattern to make it longer. However, I was unsure if I would have enough yarn, so wanted to knit the sleeves first.

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The next new skill came when I began on the sleeves and the construction required a sleeve-cap. The instructions were to pick up the stitches around the armhole and then knit from the armpit to the top of the sleeve. Then using short rows gradually construct the sleeve cap by making each row one stitches longer than the previous. The instructions were so clear I had a sleeve-cap before I had even realised what I was doing!

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Once the sleeves were done I still had three balls of yarn left so I decided to go ahead and lengthen the jumper. This was where the fun kicked in! As some of you may be aware I am a bit of a maths geek so I relished the opportunity to get a notepad up and do some sums. But that’s another post entirely so if you want to learn more about how I went adjusting this pattern to make the jumper full length keep your eyes peeled over the next few days.

The details:

Pattern: Chuck by Andi Satterlund

Yarn: Drops Nepal in Navy Blue

Needles: Drops Pro circular needles 4.5mm

Alterations: I lengthened the pattern to become full length instead of cropped – more details to follow

The yarn is so warm as it is 65% wool and 35% alpaca it is not too soft but this is not too much of a problem as I always wear a t-shirt under my jumpers. It was really nice to knit with and slid well along the needles and did not split very easily. Although my lovely metal needles are now a bit tarnished probably due to the rough nature of the yarn.

The pattern was easy to follow if a little annoying to have to jump back and forth between the garment instructions and the cable pattern but I guess this comes with the territory of cables. Once I had done the cable repeat once this wasn’t too bad as I had a rough idea what was going on anyway!

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I really like the cable design and think I did a pretty good job of them for a first proper attempt at cables other than my last hat. I especially like the twists that run down either side of the centre panel. The main cable design down the front is really good but I am not particularly neat at knitting single stitch cables yet. Maybe there is some special technique I am missing that stops these stitches looking looser than the rest. If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them!

In case you hadnt noticed yet, I really love this jumper and think I will definitely get loads of wear out of it. I don’t want to say it but its a bit of a pity spring has arrived as it might have to be shelved until next winter – but for the moment I am getting as much use out of it as possible with a pair of cropped jeans and slip on pumps with no socks to keep my temperature in check!

If you want to read some more of my notes on this pattern, what I thought about the yarn and for a sneak peak on how I lengthened the pattern you can check out my project page on Ravelry

Miette Cardigan

Miette Cardigan on HsHandcraftsThe Selfish Sweater Knitalong is an event designed to allow knitters to make something for themselves after a long period of gift knitting in the run up to Christmas. It is run by Andi Satterlund of Untangling Knots, who has some amazing patterns for a range of knitted jumpers and cardigans.

I had never knitted a garment before so I thought this knitalong was the perfect excuse to give it a try but decided to play it safe with her Miette pattern which is free! So there was nothing to loose if it turned out to be way too difficult! (It wasn’t too difficult at all though, and the pattern was really easy to follow)

I knit my very first cardigan!

I started to make my cardigan over the Christmas break. I had so much time during the days to just sit and knit. Especially given all the horrible rain we had there wasn’t much to do outside and given the fact that a lot of places were flooded we couldn’t really go anywhere. So I actually made loads of progress really quickly and had most of the cardigan knitted in just a couple of weeks.

Mietteeee

Taking part in the knitalong made knitting my first garment so much fun and through the Ravelry group I was able to get loads of help whenever I got stuck with anything. I’d really recommend taking part in a knitalong if you are trying something for the first time. The community spirit was great and I didn’t feel stupid at all asking silly questions as everyone was so helpful!

One of the new aspects to me that came with knitting my first ever garment was binding off in a stretchy way. I chose to use a modified stretchy bind-off adapted from the one described here. To make this work for a 2×2 bind off I knit the knit stitches and passed the previous stitch over as usual. Where there were purl stitches I passed the yarn over before purling and then passed 2 stitches over.

modified bind off

Also new to me was picking up stitches for the button band and ribbing around the neckline. This was something I found really tricky. The button band wasn’t too bad but required picking up fewer stitches than there were rows so required a little bit of working out. However, on about the third try I got it.

button band

However, for the ribbing around the neckline things got even trickier as some of it was in the same direction as the stitches and other parts were across rows. It took me about an hour of working out, picking up the stitches, realising I had done it wrong and stating again before I was finally happy with the way I had picked up the stitches and could start knitting the ribbing. I am glad I persevered though as I know it would bother me if it wasn’t how I wanted it (even if nobody else would even notice!)

top ribbing

The only other thing I found a bit tricky was putting the sleeves back onto the needles (They had previously been put onto scrap yarn whilst continuing with the rest of the body. Somehow I had managed to twist all the stitches whilst transferring them to the yarn which made it really hard to get them back on the needles. I think this was probably something to do with the way I took them from the needle to put them onto the yarn. I used a crochet hook but I think I would have been better to use a darning needle and thread the scrap yarn through whilst the stitches were still on the needle before taking the needle out.

 

Mietteback

The details:

Pattern: Miette Cardigan by Andi Satterlund

Yarn: Drops Paris in Petrol

Needles:Drops Pro circular needles 5mm (4.5mm for ribbing)

Alterations: 34in bust cardigan with sleeves shortened by a total of 8 rows

Thoughts on the pattern and fit

I really loved the pattern as it was so easy to follow. I was terrified of attempting some of the scarier aspects of garment knitting like joining sleeves but this seamless approach made it  really easy to follow

The only modification I made to the pattern was to omit 6 rows from the sleeves and an additional 2 rows from the ribbing on the sleeves. They are supposed to be cropped but even now they are still a little bit too long.

I am fairly short (5’3) and this pattern is a good length for me. It is cropped but sits just about on my natural waistline. It is a little longer at the back.

sideMiette

I chose to knit the 34” bust size as it was the smallest available. My bust measurment is 34” so there should be no negative ease on me and I would say this is fairly accurate. Although this pattern is designed to be worn with negative ease I am very happy with the fit and like the fitted feel without any stretch as it means the button holes don’t gape!

Thoughts on the yarn

I used Drops Paris in Petrol.
I love the feel of the yarn, it was really nice to knit with and moved easily along the needles. The only issue I found with it was if you caught a single thread it easily snagged and, unlike wool, did not easily return to the main twist.

The colour is amazing, I really love it but I am not sure I would describe it as petrol, it is more blue and fairly pale.

All in all i really love this cardigan and I am so happy to be able to wear my first knitted garment even if it is seasonally inappropriate for the sudden cold spell we are having

MeinMiette

If you like to know more about this make why not check out some more detailed notes on my Ravelry project page.

Want to see more of what I’m working on currently? Head on over to Instagram!