spotty trousers pins

Trouser Fitting Issues

So after making my Capri trousers I was a little annoyed about the lack of fit so I decided to investigate some potential fixes. I’m not sure if these trousers will be rescue-able but at least I will know for the next time I make the pattern.

To recap: I used my waist and hip measurements to choose the pattern size – I actually went for a size 12 on the waist and a 10 on the hip. The book itself actually included some information on fitting and explained how to measure crotch length and make adjustments for this but this all seemed fine for me. So, I naively thought that it would be a simple case of tapering from a 12 on the waist to a 10 on the hips, cut out the fabric and go! How wrong I was!!

trouser fitting issues

Once I tried on the trousers there were a number of fit issues I had not anticipated so I scoured the internet and found some potential solutions. One really good resource I found was on Coletterie but it seems like there is no end to the adjustments that can be made to trousers and in fact whole books have been written on the subject. I have outlined my main problems below but there are hundreds more!

Wrinkles around crotch

Wrinkles around crotch

Firstly the material is tight across my thighs and there are tight horizontal lines coming from the crotch

It seems that both of these issues are similar and I probably need to let out either the side seams or add some width to the inner thigh. This can be done by adding width close to the crotch and tapering down toward the knee.

So many problems here! Waist band not aligned properly at the zip, gaping back, wrinkles across the front

So many problems here!
Waist band not aligned properly at the zip, gaping back, wrinkles across the front

The second problem and probably the most obvious is the gaping waist at the back.

It seems that this could be because the waist is two big but the fact it only gapes at the centre back indicates I might need a sway back adjustment, this accounts for your back curving inwards. A quick Google seems to bring up lots of tutorials for this and on quick inspection it seems to be a similar type of this to a full bust adjustment where you slash and spread the pattern.

Another problem apparent from this photo is the excessive fabric around the lower belly
It turns out this could mean I need a flat tummy adjustment (That certainly made me feel pretty good about myself!)

fabric pulling on inside leg

fabric pulling on inside leg

Finally, there seems to be excess fabric down the inside of my legs meaning the trousers don’t hang well

I’m not sure if this could be due to all the other fitting problems and might be rectified when they are fixed or if there is indeed excess fabric here. If this is the case then I think I need to remove excess fabric from the centre of each leg at the front and back.

So, there’s quite a lot of issues to fix. I think I might need to make a toile and fix one at a time starting with the most obvious until I get a really good fit. I think there will be a lot of googling, head scratching and pinning in my future but hopefully once I have a pattern that fits well I will be able to make it time and time again! and if all else fails at least I have learnt that skirts are so much easier to fit!

Pattern matching of the front of the trousers

Capri Trousers

I had been really looking forward to making something from the Fashion with Fabric book that came out during the most recent series of the GBSB. It was written by Claire-Louise Hardie of The Thrifty Stitcher and it was there that she did a 30-day challenge to wear something made from the book each day. These trousers were shown on the the first day and I knew that I would have to make some!

Capri Trousers

I feel that this make was an uphill battle right from the very beginning. My favourite pair of trousers had just given up on me and I really need a replacement. The trousers were a polka dot denim and I loved them! I did not want to replicate them exactly but instead wanted to create something of the same spirit and thought this would be just the pattern. I found some polka dot black cotton on ebay that looked up to the job, and as a bonus it was on sale (buy 2 FQs and get 1 free). When the fabric arrived I dutifully put it in the wash and hung it out to dry. However, when I came to iron it before sewing I noticed a number of thin patches in the fabric. Luckily I had bought plenty so I tried to avoid these as best I could when cutting out the pattern pieces.

Thin patches on fabric

Thin patches on fabric

When cutting out the pattern pieces I wanted to make certain the spots were nicely aligned on both legs so I folded the fabric and stuck pins through the dots periodically to check they lined up on each side. I got this idea from a tutorial on sewing with stripes but the principle was just the same for spots. I think it really helped as I am really pleased with how symmetrical the spots are on each leg.

spotty trousers pins

Using pins to match spots on each layer of fabric

Pattern matching of the front of the trousers

Pattern matching of the front of the trousers

The trousers came together really quickly and the instructions in the book were pretty easy to follow. My only issue was in some of the pictures (cartoons, rather than photos) it was sometimes tricky to tell if I was supposed to be looking at the right or wrong side.

Capri Trousers on hshandcrafts

The details:

Pattern: Capri trousers from Fashion with Fabrics (GBSB Book)

Fabric: Cotton – Black with white polka dots

Notions: YKK invisible zip in black, Guterman thread in black, lightweight interfacing.

Alterations: Size 12 waste graded to size 10 hips

I really like the trousers…and then I put them on. I had tried them a few times during the making process and I wasnt quite convinced by the fit but I though if I just carried on it would all even out in the end. It didn’t. The fit is so bad I’m not sure I can wear them. they are so tight around my bum and thighs I’m afraid the seams might burst as i walk, yet the waste just gapes open at the back.

I plan to investigate into some common trouser fit issues and report back once I have figured out what might be wrong!

H.

spotty trousers pins

Spring Bank Holiday Weekend WIPs

Another long weekend is over! I hope everyone made the most of it!

I don’t have a lot to show you for this weekends progress as my dropbox became full without me realising so none of my photos have uploaded but I can tell you about what I got up to and hopefully manage to retrieve a few photos along the way!

Firstly I have been making some slow progress on my knitted shawl, sadly no pictures here. However I have now completed 3 full reps of the pattern. Only 3 more to go and then onto the lace work border! This may sound like great progress but actually I am not even nearly half way as each rep is around 20 rows (I cant remember exactly) and the number of stitches increases by 2 every row so its getting slower and slower! Oh well some progress is better than none!

I also did a fair chunk of sewing as I decided to use my extra day off to have some fun so I played my keyboard and guitar for a bit and then started on some capri trousers. These are from the latest GBSB book “Fashion with Fabric”. I bought this book as soon as it came out but this is the first thing I have tried making from it. It actually seems really straight forward and easy to follow so they are coming together really quickly!

spotty trousers pins

I also spent a chunk of time sorting through my fabric and separating the good size scraps from the useless bits. I also decided to start sewing together all of my offcuts from seam allowances and rolling them up into a great big ball of yarn. I’ve not quite decided what I am going to do with it yet but I just couldn’t let it go to waste! Maybe I will crochet a rag rug.